Sierra Foothills Vin Gris d'Amador

Rosé has moved beyond its status as quintessential poolside sipper to full-on cultural icon.

Case in point: Social media is filled with hashtags and accounts associated with ubiquitous phrases like “yes way rosé,” “when there’s a will, there’s a rosé” and “rosé all day.” These terms are emblazoned across all kinds of gear, from t-shirts, caps and clutches to posters, bridal shower invitations and wine labels. At the same time, rosé has become a popular cocktail base, spawning a flurry of mixed drinks including fruit-flecked sangria, slushy frosé and rosé lemonade.

Yes, these vibrantly-hued beverages and bottles may make the perfect Instagram accessory. But, when mixed with other ingredients or guzzled like Gatorade? It’s safe to say that rosé’s often subtle and sophisticated aromas and flavors can be lost.

However, producers are increasingly attempting to shift the conversation—or at least add to it—by promoting serious, intentional interpretations of the summer staple.

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But this growing movement of thoughtfully crafted rosés is happening far beyond the borders of France. Many of these wines are ripe for aging and offered at far more budget-conscious price points than their Mediterranean counterparts.

Bill Easton, winemaker and winegrower at Terre Rouge and Easton Wines in Northern California’s Sierra Foothills, has been making rosé since 1987—way before Summer Water or Bon Jovi’s Hampton Water were even a thought. His $30-a-bottle Vin Gris d’Amador is a Southern Rhône-style dry rosé made from Grenache, Mourvèdre and about 15% mixed whites including Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier.

To differentiate his rosé from the pink wines with which Americans were most accustomed until the past decade or so—a.k.a those made with sugary white Zinfandel—Easton decided to name it Vin Gris (“grey wine”). He admits the term is unlikely to catch on or go viral. But he’s not concerned.

Easton’s focus is on quality, not marketing or hype. “The French and Quebecois that sell my rosé call it a gastronomic rosé,” he says. “It ages and improves in the bottle, but starts getting very good one to two years after bottling.”

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Though it’s unlikely “rosé all day” culture will go anywhere anytime soon—nor do many want it to. After all, #rosé is big business. But the winemakers who have invested their time and resources into making intentional wines are glad more consumers ready to look past the cheesy t-shirts and hashtags.

“There is a lot of hype out there,” says Easton. “I don’t like hype. #Nohype!”